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16 Aug 2023

History and prospects of linen industry in Belarus

History and prospects of linen industry in Belarus

What distinguishes the Belarusian development model? We stay the course and just press forward, no matter the circumstances. The huge empire (the Soviet Union) collapsed. The young republic was patiently and persistently building its independence. The global crisis broke out; Belarusians quietly worked hard to deal with the difficulties. The West imposes new sanctions? Hmm... As the saying goes, whatever floats their boat. In this episode, we will talk about the main political crop of Belarus. Let's find out why Aleksandr Lukashenko pays so much attention to the enterprise where his mother worked once. How Donald Trump's wife Melania got the Belarusian linen fabric (with assistance of the Belarusian president of course).

 

When did cultivated flax make its first appearance?

Man learned to cultivate flax several thousand years ago. Back in ancient times, linen fabric was a status symbol in Egypt and the Middle East. Its popularity reached the shores of the Caspian Sea and the Black Sea. From the Old Testament we know that the priests were to wear linen clothes. Flax, which grew from the earth, was considered a symbol of purity and innocence.

Leviticus 16:4 "He must put on a holy linen robe and wear linen undergarments. He must wear a linen belt and turban. These are holy clothes.”

Flax has been grown on the Belarusian land since ancient times. It was used to weave linen and sew clothes, to make wonderful household items, toys for children. Flax was celebrated in songs, poems. It was featured in proverbs and sayings. It became a true national wealth. It was ceolebrated by many poets including Yanka Kupala.

Light-colored linen clothes were a symbol of innocence and moral purity. So a young girl wore a linen gown when getting married.

Why is flax called a political crop in Belarus?

But how did flax turn from a people's favorite into a political crop? This happened relatively recently. History takes us to the 1930s.

"The Soviet Union Constitution was adopted in 1936. It was called the Constitution of Victorious Socialism. A year later, constitutions were adopted in the Soviet Union republics. A commission was set up at the Supreme Soviet of the USSR to streamline the texts of the constitutions. It began its work in 1938. Heraldry specialists worked together with philologists. The emblem of the Belarusian Soviet Socialist Republic featured the image of oak leaves, symbolizing the strength of the Belarusian Soviet Socialist Republic. But it was a time of industrialization, new achievements. For example, Orsha Linen Mill was commissioned in 1930. So the commission in Moscow decided to replace the oak branch with a sheaf of rye and wrap it in flax flowers. This is how flax came to be on the emblem of the Belarusian Soviet Socialist Republic in 1938,” said Sergei Aleksandrovich, Candidate of Historical Sciences, Faculty of History, Belarusian State University.

Back then flax symbolized the strength and industrial successes of the young Belarusian republic. Initially flax was depicted in seed pods. It was only 11 years later that flax "bloomed" on the emblem of the Belarusian Soviet Socialist Republic. It was this symbolism that inspired the design of the Belorusskaya metro station in Moscow in the middle of the last century.

“Belarusians are a peaceful people who do not threaten anyone and who greatly value the opportunity to live and work peacefully on their land. Yet, they will never allow anyone to take away their freedom. Thus, aggressive heraldic signs have no place in the national symbols that were chosen by Belarusians,” reads one of the president's greetings on the Day of the National Emblem and the National Flag.

Orsha Linen Mill started out as a small factory to become a famous brand that was known all over the Soviet Union. It grew into ‘a linen giant' by the start of the Great Patriotic War. The war took a wrecking ball to the factory. The Nazis blew up production facilities and residential buildings that belonged to the factory. The company had to start from scratch in the post-war period. But this did not discourage Belarusians: as early as 1949, the enterprise surpassed the pre-war production figures. For outstanding achievements, Orsha Linen Mill received the highest award of the USSR - the Order of Lenin.

How did Belarus rejuvenate its flax and linen industry?

After the collapse of the Soviet Union, Belarus inherited enormous industrial assets. However, well-established economic ties were disrupted and sales markets were lost. The production ground to a halt, because the fledgling republic did not need as much as its factories produced. However, the country's new leadership did not have the nerve to shut down or sell off enterprises that became public property. Belarus was able not only to preserve its manufacturing capacities, but also to upgrade them. The country has not lost a single large enterprise, including Orsha Linen Mill.

The president reiterated that flax has a political significance for Belarus. And it is not even about politics: linen goods are a lucrative business. So, the government was simply obliged to give a new lease of life to the Belarusian linen industry. Moreover, Belarus has everything is place to make high-quality linen products: appropriate climate, competencies and technologies.

“After the collapse of the Soviet Union, the industry gradually fell into decay. As the new millennium was approaching, the head of state gave an instruction to bring the industry into shape and to make sure public procurement orders for flax fiber would be fulfilled. Orsha Linen Mill lacked fiber supplies then. In the early 2000s, a number of programs were developed to modernize the industry. Ten linen mills were built virtually from scratch and were kitted out with modern production lines. Yields have increased by 2.3 times since 2000. In 2000 Belarus cropped 4.5 centners of flax fiber per hectare. Last year's yields stood at 10.7 centners per hectare. Although flax areas were halved in comparison with 2000, we have cropped 47,000 tonnes of flax fiber (37,000 tonnes in 2000). Can you imagine what growth and return did this modernization bring about?” said Sergei Bobrovsky, Head of the Flax Production Department of the Agriculture and Food Ministry of Belarus.

Since 2007, more than $200 million have been invested in Orsha Linen Mill. Today Belarus is the world's third biggest producer of flax fiber, with the first and second places held by France and Belgium. Belarusian flax and linen products are shipped to almost all corners of the world: from the nearby Baltic countries to the faraway Republic of South Africa.

“The decision to feature flax on the emblem of our country was made for a reason. Tell me, can I agree with the government's proposal to destroy the flax processing industry? The number one task today is to produce the optimal amount of flax fiber that can be processed and sold. Belarus will have a flax-growing industry! I'm sure we are in a position to create a world-class flax industry,” Aleksandr Lukashenko said in 2010.

To do this should a matter of honor for every enterprise. However, not all factories approached this task with due diligence and commitment. The Belarusian president can forgive a lot, but not mismanagement and carelessness. Especially when it comes to national assets, the country's symbol. In 2014, Aleksandr Lukashenko made a surprise visit to Slutsk Linen Mill. Dirty and untidy premises, piled up raw materials decaying into waste… This outraged the president, to put it mildly.

“It is utter mismanagement on your part. And we are blaming peasants for sub-standard quality of raw materials. Why are your raw materials stacked up like that? Since you have done it, was it so hard to cover the stacks? Well, why would you put such a bale in this way – with its end up? It is leaking. Why are you storing flax like this? How are you going to deal with losses? Total chaos. It looks like no one cares,” the president said.

It is no surprise, that the president's inspection resulted in starting a criminal case.

 

What countries does Belarus sell its linen to

“The textile industry is not the only consumer of flax fiber. Flax is used in the defense industry, healthcare, the chemical industry and in many other sectors. In other words, you cannot do without flax. All parts of flax are used in our country. Flax straw is rotted to get fiber and make fabrics, seeds and shives are used for heating, and so on. A truly unique crop. Probably, no other crop can compare to it in Belarus and the entire world,” Sergei Bobrovsky said.

In 2021, Belarus' linen exports approached $100 million. Belarus earned more foreign currency on linen supplies than on the export of frozen fruit, spirits, and potatoes. Last year, Belarusian linens were sold to the CIS and EU countries, China, India, Pakistan, Israel, the United States and the United Kingdom.

“The demand for linen products is ever growing. For us, the post-Chernobyl country, Ukraine and Russia, this is akin to "medicine". Linen fabrics are a salvation for us. The world has long understood, especially Europe, its benefits. Meanwhile the number of manufacturers is decreasing. Did we do the right thing by deciding to upgrade production facilities, especially this linen mill? Is this really our thing? Absolutely. Life has confirmed it,” Aleksandr Lukashenko stressed.

It may surprise you but Melania Trump also has Belarusian linen goods. Here is how they got to her. Four years ago Aleksandr Lukashenko held a meeting with U.S. President's National Security Advisor John Bolton and asked him to deliver gifts for the U.S. presidential couple. The head of state gifted a dagger to Donald Trump and Belarusian linen tablecloths and napkins to Melania Trump.

“Probably, such fabric is no longer produced in the United States. Will you please pass it to Melania (Trump)? Women love these things. After all she hails from a Slavic country where linen is a traditional fabric,” Aleksandr Lukashenko said.

What prospects does Belarusian flax and linen industry have

“Linen goods are in great demand, primarily in China and Russia. Orsha Linen Mill is a priority in terms of procurement. The plant has very good prospects. We see that we need to increase flax cultivation and processing volumes. Currently ranked third in the world in terms of flax cultivation and export, we need to strive for the top spot. If we succeed, this will be a huge achievement!” the representative of the Agriculture and Food Ministry said.

The head of state has a special attitude towards Orsha Linen Mill for a reason. There is no doubt that it is a strategic enterprise for the industry. But why does Aleksandr Lukashenko have a warm regard for Orsha Linen Mill? Everything is plain and simple. The president answered this question as he confirmed Oleg Buyanov as Director General of Orsha Linen Mill in late July.

“This enterprise is dear to me. My mother used to work there. But my personal feelings do not matter. Although I still feel a bit nostalgic about it. I visited it often when I was a school student. I toured this linen mill up and down numerous times. You know that the products made by the company are essential for our political identity. We have flax on our national emblem. This is why I would like you to work well. If you find ways to improve the situation with raw materials, I will be grateful to you,” the head of state said.

“I have been studying all the information about the enterprise. In general it operates quite well. There are imbalances in some indicators. First of all, there are imbalances in commercial operations. There are backlogs of inventory. There are problems with export. The enterprise has been unable to make up for the loss of exports to Europe so far. Deeper processing of raw materials is also on the agenda,” the head of the enterprise said.

“In short, you will be able to make gunpowder out of short fibers,” the president added.

“Yes, Mr. President,” Oleg Buyanov replied.

It should be clarified here that gunpowder can indeed be made from flax, and, according to experts, the substance in this case has more energy than the one produced from traditional cotton raw materials. The president spoke in general about the need to expand the range of products based on flax raw materials.

Belarusians cherish their traditions, pass them on to their descendants. This serves as a powerful moral force, intellectual resource, which determine the vitality of the people and their original culture.

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